With just two additional cooks in the kitchen, and Loew-Banayan’s wife Bettina Loew-Banayan running the front of house, the tiny crew focuses on Old World cooking, influenced by Loew-Banayan’s meat-loving Hungarian ancestors, and informed by what their farmer and forager friends bring them each week. And even as the influence of platforms like TikTok grows and reshapes restaurant culture (whether we like it or not), a handful of new restaurants have decided to hell with fleeting trends.ħ57 Columbia St., Hudson, NY Cafe Mutton is technically a café, sure, but as the restaurant’s Instagram bio points out: “We don’t have fucking breakfast sandwiches.” Instead, in a cottage-like corner building on a quiet street in Hudson, New York, chef-owner Shaina Loew-Banayan takes a deliberately trend-averse approach. After the pandemic made plain exactly how thankless restaurant work can be, some of the places on this list are challenging industry norms and putting their staff first in ways that feel new and refreshing. Dishes and foodways that were previously hard to find in a lot of US cities are taking center stage, which means more Guyanese and South Indian and Palestinian and Indigenous Mexican food for all of us. The industry has been through a lot in the last few years, but these new restaurants point to a hopeful next chapter. We’d text each other with near-maniacal glee that we’d just experienced a transcendent bagel with marshmallow fluff and warm banana tahini jam (yes, seriously, take it up with Korshak Bagels in Philly), or a few wonderfully gelatinous dumplings and a plate of crab dip at a curtained speakeasy above a pho restaurant (Phởcific Standard Time, Seattle). But as we crisscrossed the country in search of the 50 best new restaurants of 2022, we were overwhelmed by how thrilling restaurant culture is at this moment. You’d think that after practically living in new restaurants while putting this list together, the last place the BA staff would want to be right now is another restaurant. See our final list of America's 10 Best New Restaurants here.
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